lunedì 23 novembre 2009

New Route!!!!! "RAMRI KETI"

here is a short update of the past few weeks here in the Kumbu.

Nicolas and Francesco joined me for a further adventure in the area and as they arrived we found some "work" to do!

Going up the renjo pass we noticed a nice gully on an unclimbed face: the Hama Yomjuma Peak 5970m.

Here is the topo:


Enrico Bonino (Mountain Guide)

Nicolas Meli: (Mountain Guide)

Francesco Cantu’: Doctor

DATE: 19-22/11/2009

GRADING: 5+/m7/5A


SUMMIT: Hama Yomjuma 5970m


APPROACH: From Lukla airport up towards the Renjo Pass to the village of Lungden (4 days) 4200m. From the village is possible to see the upper part of the face. The approach is straight forward above the lodges (3h).

DESCRIPTION: from the base of the rocky place there are three couloirs going up, choose the middle one. 5 pitches from 5a to M6 will lead to an S snow couloir that end at the snow field (bivy place very confortable).

150m of snow slope and than a mixed steep section of 80 m climb will lead to the second 100m snow field.

The upper gully is now evident. 12 pitches from 4/R to M7 will lead to a massive rock barrier. This is the end of the line. From here is possible to abseil down.

The last rappel down is out of the climbing line protected from rock and snow fall.

here follow some pictures of the route while waiting for a more detailed update.

Enrico on the firsth pitch

Enrico on the 3rd pitch

Enrico leading the 3rd pitch of the dry section

Francesco on the 4th pitch of the dry section

Nick on the first dry section

Confortable second bivy...

Francesco working his way on the 2nd pitch of the upper section

Enrico leading on the 5+ gully

Enrico on the M7

martedì 3 novembre 2009

4-11-2009 Dingboche

Here we are Anne and I in Dingboche.
We climbed 2 days ago the Nireka peak, a stunning mountain 6169m high hiding behind the Cho la Col.
After our acclimatization tour around Renjo Pass and Gokyo, we met our local team in Tagnag.
With the cook and few porters we left mid mornind heading to base camp. They walked up the hill amazingly fast and found us a great sunny place where to set the camp.
From the village of Tagnag you mainly follow the path towards the common Cho la Pass till the slope starts going down. At that time a side valley opens and heads north east towards the Cho la Col.
Itchia and the rest of the crew managed to cook the best spaghetti with cheese sauce and the best pizza margherita of the Khumbu! what a luxury!

the day after with Pengba and few others we headed towards the glacier and as i am an ice climbing freak we had a nice morning ice climbing on the glacier head wall! it was for Anne the first time ice climbing on steep ice...and i think she is becoming and ice climbing freak as well eh eh !
Pengba also climbed showing all his natural phisical power!

than, we continued up the glacier towards the col and set a High camp at 5550m, just at the base of the ridge.

the night has been very cold, -16 outside and not much less in the tent!
We started around 4:30 in the morning, although either Anne and myself were not feeling great.
But what can you do....the magic power of the mountains gave us the strenght to make it to the top. The way is steep and spectacular ice climbing through crevasses and over small seracs!
Once to te top the view was fantastic over the all Khumbu and not only...the Everest showing for what it is: a big piramide of loose rock, and not very pretty compared to all the pretty mountains around it!

As we made our way down all the crew came toward us with hot lemon welcoming us at their best! this people are amazing, very hearthful!
thanks you all, you've made the difference in our trip!

now Anne and i are heading back to Kathmandu and for her the holiday is almost over...

as far as myself concerns, few friends are coming over to spend 40 days climbing technical routes together! looking forward to it!

keep you updated!