Nicolas and Francesco joined me for a further adventure in the area and as they arrived we found some "work" to do!
Going up the renjo pass we noticed a nice gully on an unclimbed face: the Hama Yomjuma Peak 5970m.
Here is the topo:
Enrico Bonino (Mountain Guide)
Nicolas Meli: (Mountain Guide)
Francesco Cantu’: Doctor
SUMMIT: Hama Yomjuma 5970m
APPROACH: From Lukla airport up towards the Renjo Pass to the village of Lungden (4 days) 4200m. From the village is possible to see the upper part of the face. The approach is straight forward above the lodges (3h).
DESCRIPTION: from the base of the rocky place there are three couloirs going up, choose the middle one. 5 pitches from 5a to M6 will lead to an S snow couloir that end at the snow field (bivy place very confortable).
150m of snow slope and than a mixed steep section of 80 m climb will lead to the second 100m snow field.
The upper gully is now evident. 12 pitches from 4/R to M7 will lead to a massive rock barrier. This is the end of the line. From here is possible to abseil down.
The last rappel down is out of the climbing line protected from rock and snow fall.
here follow some pictures of the route while waiting for a more detailed update.
Enrico on the firsth pitch
Enrico on the 3rd pitch
Enrico leading the 3rd pitch of the dry section
Francesco on the 4th pitch of the dry section
Nick on the first dry section
Confortable second bivy...
Francesco working his way on the 2nd pitch of the upper section
Enrico leading on the 5+ gully
Enrico on the M7